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Champagne Laurent Perrier Ultra Brut (France)
The first brand to create a wine with zero dosage in 1889, it took nearly a century to relaunch it. Champagne with no added sugar, which means juice quality has to be flawless, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir singled out for having low acidity; this Champagne is made with wines coming from very ripe grapes. A minimum of four years ageing allows it to express its full aromatic potential. White flower, citrus and peach notes underlined by lively mineral edges and superb structure. Finally, its very long finish refreshes your mouth and makes you want to sip it till dawn. It’s been a few years since chefs started setting themselves the unenviable task of dreaming up a whole meal based on Ultra Brut. Last spring, it was Alain Llorca’s turn, from La Passagère in Juan-les-Pins, to concoct a few dishes matched with this very fine wine. Winning bet.
Best with: oysters, caviar or just on its own after a summer stroll just for the pleasure of it.
price: 55.00€
Independant Shops
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Veuve Clicquot Brut Carte Jaune
The « widow » is hardly a Champagne for weepy grandmothers! Strongly expressive on the nose, there is a spicy edge to its rich aromas of white and yellow fruit. The palate is of the same ilk, very savoury and full of flavours which are never vulgar. The finish is both powerful and elegant. Characterful!
Drink with: fish, poultry and white meat, vegetable terrines, firm cheeses
price: 31.90€
www.chateauonline.com
www.uk.chateauonline.com
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Veuve Devaux, Cuvée Ultra D
Laurent Gillet, the president of a cooperative winery in the Aube (the southern part of Champagne), has produced with his cellar-master a very lightly dosed Champagne: just two grams of sugar per litre (whereas a brut is usually given 10/12 grams). The first impression on the nose is very fresh, then one gets whiffs of dried fruit. On the palate it manages to be both rounded and lively, and the flavours last for a long time. This light dosage in sugar ensures that it stays fine and crisp on the finish.
Drink with: shell fish, raw fish, and as an aperitif
price: 32.90€
www.chateauonline.com
www.uk.chateauonline.com
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Champagne Dehours Grande Réserve Extra Brut (France)
The Dehours Champagne House is known for its “collections” vintages, prepared per vineyard with limited yield: once discovering a vintage to your fancy, hurry before it is too late! This, of course, does not prevent the making of more extensive vintages, prepared with equally as much care. The one in question comprises an assembly of the three main vines: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, dominating by 48%. We are in the southern part of the Marne Valley where this vine-type is at its best, developing a fruity and supple character. The vintage is exempt of any mixtures, i.e. no expedition liqueur (sugar) added prior to final corking, thereby allowing a subtle and nervous note, without sparseness. The abundant bubbles are excessively fine, with fennel and fresh mint aromas dominating. An immensely harmonious wine. Ideal: as an aperitif, with oysters or with caviar.
price: 21.00€
www.champagne-dehours.fr
Genesis Wines Ltd Londres tél : +44 20 7963 9062
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Extra Brut 2000, Champagne R. Geoffroy, (France)
This champagne is old fashioned, the grapes are carefully sorted, and only the best are kept for the vintage. The pressing process is slow and meticulous thanks to a traditional wine-press, vine by vine, plot by plot, and the only juices which are used are the top ones in the vintage. The wine is then made on dregs in barrels, which gives it an intense deep gold colour.
It is then kept bottled in the cellar before adding 2 grams per litre of its expedition liqueur, which is very little. But the juice is so filled with flavours that adding to much sugar would be a crime. To the smell the odour of wood is complimented by peach, cedar and spice aromas. Full to the taste, we find the same aromas with on top of that the flavour of honey and toast. A rare wine. Serve with: chaource (a creamy cheese similar to Camembert), a fricassee of shellfish with cream, or black truffle canapés.
price: 48.00€
Lafayette Gourmet
H & H Bancroft winery limited
draund@bancroftwines.com
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