La Table du Gourmet and the Brendelstub
|
La Table du Gourmet and the Brendelstub
Alsace is one of France’s most beautiful regions and Riquewihr is one of the most beautiful villages in France. This once-fortified Medieval city, amazingly spared by two world wars, has retained a certain charm thanks to its inhabitants being well aware of their heritage. Today, vines grow right up to the town’s edges and the surrounding countryside is like a sea of leaves that makes some of the nicest wines in the appellation, liquid pleasure. To go with this nectar, there’s also stylish food and places to stay and relax, which complement this lifestyle like at Michelin-starred chef Jean-Luc Brendel’s place, a figurehead in the region. At his Gourmet Table, in its splendid decor where the red walls and matt black beams highlight that traditional Alsace architecture with daring clashing colours, he dishes up delicate cuisine fed by his curiosity and worldliness. At his other place, Brendelstub, a “winstub” (wine bar) on the main street, he’s done the opposite and deliberately dropped tradition in favour of a very designer space, where his crew are busy roasting whole hams and making those famous “tartes flambées” (with cream, onions and bacon). Upstairs from this magnificent Renaissance townhouse, there are four outstanding suites ready and waiting. He’s brought the old frescos in the staircase back to life, hidden by layers of grime. And each bedroom has, besides the ultimate in comfort, mad charm and subtle luxury: natural-look wood-framed walls serving as screens between the bedroom and lounge area, materials such as exposed stonework or multicoloured ceilings, ceramic stove, plus a view overlooking the town’s streets or roofs. It’s modern and romantic, cosy and refined. Jean-Luc has been good at exploiting tradition without freezing it in time. He’s planning more rooms and an “even grander” luxury apartment. This establishment is a good springboard for going on vineyard walks, after cheekily sneaking into the courtyards of the town’s well-off bourgeois homes, architectural masterpieces. Despite the non-stop flow of tourists, Alsace people are still warm and welcoming. It’s like, having suffered so much for being on a constantly fought over frontier, taken and taken back, it gave them a new lease of life built on scorn for the invaders. As they say having a laugh, the rest of the country’s population are French from the interior, carefree gossips. The extreme climate, which unites them all, and the quality of their wines and food have created unbreakable bonds between everyone here, which they like to share with visitors. May God’s grace be with them.
Agnès Lascève
d’Brendelstub
48 rue du Général de Gaulle
68340 Riquewihr
Tel. +33 (0)3 89 86 54 55
Suites from €160 per night. Various board options and offers available.
|
||
