Chablis
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Chablis: sunlight in the winter
Pale and comforting, emulated the world over, Chablis is made only in one place, two hours outside of Paris. Unique soil, for a unique wine.
Its winter, cold and grey, everyone’s thinking the same thing: heading down south. Starting out from Paris the best route to take is the A6 highway, a nice change from the “Nationale 7”, a highway which Trenet describes as too springy for the season, and since becoming completely urbanized is too depressing to drive down in any case (would you prefer your steak and fries at the Courtepaille outside of Saint-Maclou carpets or at the shopping centre’s cafeteria?). After driving 186 kilometres closer to our sunny destination it seems time for a break, or as roadside security would say “une pause s’impose” (a break is in order). We get off at exit 20 for Tonnerre. Why Tonnerre? Because it is indicated by one of those Burgundy signs for charming pit stops, and because just under “Tonnerre” we can read “Les portes de la Bourgogne” (The doors to Burgundy).
A long history...
Bourgogne. All of a sudden I’m in better spirits, thinking of Mâcon and... Chablis. A joyful wine to go with deli meats and a wine with depth which makes American women dream. We’ll save the first till spring to drink while listening to Trenet. We’re off to engulf ourselves in the blanket of fog lying on the hills of Chablis. What exactly does Chablis mean? But of course! cab leya means “the house close to the forest” in Celtic. Close to the river which runs through the village and is called... the Serein (Serene). Like our mood which is improving with each minute spent following the Beine pond. Our ancestors had the same idea as us to chase away the blues: they would go and hide out in Chablis. What a grand idea! History states that the region has been attracting visitors since the Neolithic period. What about the vineyards on the side of the highway? They’ve been here since the Gauls. A roman emperor, Domitien forbid them around 81 (the year not the Tarn county), but one of his more open-minded successors, Probus, restored them 200 years later, and for 17 centuries there has been little change: in Chablis, they make wine.
Incomparable soil
More precisely, since the demarcation of the Chablis appellation in 1938, Chablis is made on 6800 hectares distributed throughout twenty villages and hamlets along the valley of the Serein, on all sides of the town of Chablis. The vines are everywhere from knolls to glens to hillsides so steep that one would have to pick the grapes by abseiling. What do they have in common? First of all, 100% Chardonnay as far as the eye can see, and above all unique soil which goes back to the Jurassic era of Kimmeridgian where soil alternated between limestone and clay. The soil still conceals marine fossils from a time when a warm blue lagoon used to flow. It’s this soil that gives the wines their particular characteristics, the tangy rock flavour, light or full, depending on the vintages. A style imitated the world over but never equalled. The alchemy between the soil, the climate and the wine growers is essential to attain the impeccable taste, the hints of lemon, lime blossom, dried fruits and that density which makes you long for a basket of oysters, an entire lobster or an entire comté cake. On a lighter note, it might make some crave fish with cream sauce, chicken or a small chitterling sausage... with Chablis of course.
We’re in heaven. All that’s left to do is push open the doors. Cruel dilemma: should we start by going in to a tempting restaurant, a cosy hotel or to an enthusiastic wine grower’s property? No matter the order in which we go, the sun is everywhere.
Understanding Chablis
There are four appellations in Chablis: Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru and Chablis Grand Cru. They are divided in to four production areas, with different production techniques. Premiers Crus and Grands Crus are subdivided by different “climates” or zones, which each contain different areas. The variations of the soil and subsoil, the exposure, and the slope distinguish these areas from each other.
Our address book:
Stéphane Moreau-Naudet
Under 40, laughing eyes, an undeniable cheekiness and wines that are powerful, generous and delicate, this “small” wine maker is definitely one to watch.
Can’t miss: Chablis Premier Cru Forêts 2006, 28€
Tel: +33(0)3.86.42.14.83
Domaine Faiveley
A sure thing for the past seven generations. The 2006 vintage, delicious throughout the Chablis region, was a particular success here, even in the simplest appellations.
Can’t miss: Chablis 2006, 15€
Jean-Marc Brocard
A large an important domain which can be found in many wine stores and wine fairs. He sometimes sells very young (he’s already offering his 2007 crop), which allows him to observe their evolution.
Can’t miss: Chablis Premier Cru Vau de Vey 2007, 13,50€
Joseph Drouhin
A family estate for the past 40 years. The youngest generation had divided the work amongst themselves, Philippe in the vineyard, and Frédéric in sales. Their sister Véronique is also back in town after a long stay in American vineyards.
Can’t miss: Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir 2006, 39€
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